The water has receded, and the storm has passed. But for many property owners, the real disaster is just beginning. You’ve discovered inches (or feet) of water in your basement or across your first floor.
You are now in a race against time. Mold can begin to grow in as little as 24-48 hours. The actions you take in the first few hours are critical to saving your property and preventing a toxic, expensive mold remediation problem.
Here are the fast dry-out steps you must take.
Step 0: SAFETY FIRST. DO NOT ENTER A FLOODED AREA.
If water is near any electrical outlets, your breaker box, or large appliances, do not enter. Call your utility company to have the power shut off immediately. Wear rubber boots and gloves to protect against contaminated water.
Step 1: Get the Water OUT (The First 1-12 Hours)
You cannot dry anything until the standing water is gone.
- Use a Pump: For significant water, you need a sump pump or a “trash pump.” You can rent these from any home improvement store. Get the pump to the lowest point and run the discharge hose far away from your foundation.
- Use a Wet-Vac: Once the water is down to an inch or less, a high-power wet/dry vacuum is your best tool. Shop-vacs are good; commercial-grade “water extractors” are better.
Step 2: Remove All Wet Materials (The Next 12-24 Hours)
This is the hardest, but most important, step. If it got wet, it must go. Do not try to “save” it.
- Carpet and Padding: Saturated carpet and (especially) carpet padding are impossible to salvage. They are a breeding ground for mold. Cut them into strips, roll them up, and get them out of the house immediately.
- Drywall: This acts like a sponge. Any drywall that has touched floodwater must be cut out. A good rule of thumb is to measure the high-water mark and cut at least 12 inches above it.
- Insulation: All wet insulation (fiberglass, cellulose) is a total loss. It will never dry properly and will hold mold against your studs. Pull it all out.
- Furniture: Upholstered furniture (sofas, mattresses) is unsalvageable. Solid wood furniture may be salvageable if cleaned and dried quickly.
Step 3: Create an “Evaporation Vortex” (The Next 24-72+ Hours)
Now that the space is empty, you must dry out the structure itself (the wood studs, the concrete floor).
- Dehumidify: Get as many dehumidifiers as you can. You need “LGR” (Low-Grain Refrigerant) or “desiccant” dehumidifiers, which are far more powerful than home models. Rent them. Place them in the center of the space.
- Get Air Moving: Use high-velocity “air movers” or “carpet fans” (again, rented). Do not point them at the wet areas. Point them along the walls and floor. You are creating a vortex of dry, fast-moving air that wicks moisture out of the wood and concrete and feeds it to the dehumidifiers.
- Heat (If Possible): A warm, dry environment speeds evaporation.
This process is exhausting and overwhelming, especially when you are also dealing with a damaged roof or windows. If the water intrusion was caused by a roof failure, [call StormWrappers immediately]. We can provide a 100% waterproof roof enclosure to stop any more water from coming in, which is the critical first step before you can even begin the dry-out process.
